A Traveler's Experience

Hells Canyon Scenic Byway (OR)

The Hells Canyon Scenic Byway, an All American Road. I would like to describe my experience on this byway as a true slice of Western Americana, as American as apple pie. This journey begins in early September of "04" at LaGrande, Oregon, on the Oregon Trail. As you leave I-84 at LaGrande and head east on Hwy 82 following the Grande Ronde Valley, you almost immediately sense that you need to slow down and enjoy the scenery, the lush farm lands, the history, the wildlife, the culture, the Wallowa Mountains as they reach majestically towards the blue sky.

Passing through the towns of Imler and Elgin, Hwy 82 becomes a little narrower as it climbs and descends the hills. And as you wind your way down into the Minam River Valley with its sharp craggy rock outcroppings, carved and sculpted by glaciers thousands of years ago, you come to the juncture of the Minam and Wallowa Rivers as they join together and head north to flow into the Grande Ronde River.

It was at this juncture that we turned to follow this flow of water to the Minam River State Park, where we enjoyed a picnic lunch sitting amongst the pines, listening to the birds, and the rustle of the pine needles in the breeze, along with the river flowing by.

Now, just as the wagon master would have bellowed out, "Wagons ho!" it was back to Hwy 82 and on to the Wallowa Mountains Visitor Center, after passing through the towns of Wallowa and Lostine. This visitor center is a definite stopping point, to pick up local information and learn from the exhibits, and the view of the Wallowa Valley is tremendous from this vantage point.

From the Wallowa Mountains Visitor Center it's just a short drive into Enterprise. An interesting town, that was a must stop on our itinerary, as Enterprise has three quilting/fabric stores. And God forbid if you pass by one of these stores without stopping, if you are travelling with a quilter. We enjoyed a great dinner at one of the restaurants in Enterprise, they had a turf and surf special of grilled salmon and rib steak, and this was some of the best grilled salmon I've ever had. After dinner we headed for Wallowa Lake to find lodging for the night passing through Joseph. We found lodging at the upper end of Wallowa Lake; being September, it was not too difficult.

We arose the next morning, to a crispness in the mountain air. We enjoyed a short morning hike from the trailheads above Wallowa Lake, saw several nice four-point muledeer bucks. What a treat! Now it was back to the town of Joseph, an intriquing town as it has developed into a thriving art community, with three bronze foundries. Joseph is a must stop if nothing else, but stroll the main street to look at all the bronze statues and browse the interesting art galleries and interesting shops. We enjoyed a late breakfast at a quirky little sidewalk cafe, whose outdoor seating area looked like it was designed by Fred Flintstone and Barney Rubble. The seating and tables were made of basalt rock and thick wood slabs. It was great!

It was early afternoon as we left Joeseph on Hwy 350, passing hay fields and grain fields. And as I looked out across these fields watching the behemoth machines of today harvesting the last cutting of hay and threshing the grain, my thoughts wandered to times past. These tasks were then performed by horses and men guiding them. How things have changed. And, relating to times past, I also thought of how Chief Joseph and the Nez Perce Indians had viewed this Wallowa Valley of rolling grass and timbered hills and lush green meadows in the draws, where their horses grazed and their villages stood. You see a lot of this landscape that is very much as it was two hundred years ago.

Now it was on to Forest Road 39, and to the Hells Canyon Overlook. Driving through this beautiful forest scenery was so refreshing, you just automatically slow down, to enjoy it as much as you can. At the Hells Canyon Overlook, as you peer into this river canyon, you know it's a long way to the bottom.

From this point we pushed on to Halfway, with another must stop on our itinerary -- the Quilting/fabric store and Antique shop in Halfway; a very worthwhile stop.

From Halfway we pushed on to Baker City on Hwy 86, passing thru Richland, a small laid back community with good visitor services. We found accomodations in Baker City, and the next morning we back-tracked to The Oregon Trail Interpretive Center on Flagstaff Hill. This is a must stop on the byway. The interpretive displays are tremendous. We also enjoyed a living history presentation. Also, we took the interpretive trail hike down to the wagon ruts of the Oregon Trail, about a three-mile hike and well worth it.

In conclusion of this expierience I would like to share a quote my dad used to say when we had apple pie "Apple pie without cheese, is like a kiss without a squeeze". The Hells Canyon Scenic Byway All American Road, is definitely Apple Pie with Cheese.